
Plissage Accordéon
Accordion Pleats
Classic evenly-spaced parallel folds — the most iconic plissage pattern.
Accordion pleats are the most recognizable plissage pattern in fashion. Created by folding fabric into a series of narrow, evenly-spaced parallel ridges — like the bellows of an accordion instrument — they produce a crisp, rhythmic texture that catches light and movement beautifully. At Slim Plissage, we have been hand-crafting accordion pleats in our Jemmel, Tunisia atelier since 1987.
History & origins
Accordion pleats rose to prominence in the early 20th century and were central to the iconic designs of Mariano Fortuny and, later, Issey Miyake. They remain a staple in haute couture, ready-to-wear, and home textiles thanks to their timeless elegance and versatile drape.
Characteristics
- Narrow, uniform folds (typically 3–15 mm wide)
- Symmetrical — folds face alternately forward and backward
- Creates strong vertical lines that elongate silhouettes
- Drapes fluidly when the fabric is lightweight
Best fabrics
- Silk satin and silk chiffon
- Polyester (holds pleats permanently)
- Organza
- Lightweight crepe
Common applications
- Evening gowns and cocktail dresses
- Pleated skirts and culottes
- Scarves and stoles
- Curtains and window treatments
- Lamp shades
How we make it
Consultation and fabric selection
We review the client's fabric, weight, and end use to confirm accordion pleats are the best match.
Mold preparation
A precision cardboard pattern is used, calibrated to the desired fold width.
Folding
The fabric is fed into the mold and folded manually or by machine for high-volume orders.
Steam setting
Industrial steam presses fix the pleats permanently at the correct temperature for the fabric.
Inspection and packaging
Each piece is checked for fold uniformity before being carefully packed to protect the pleats.
Frequently asked questions about accordion pleats
Accordion pleating creates narrow, evenly-spaced parallel folds in fabric that resemble the bellows of an accordion instrument. It is the most classic plissage pattern, widely used in fashion and home textiles.
Polyester holds accordion pleats best (permanently), while silk, chiffon, and organza give elegant drape. At Slim Plissage we pleat all of these regularly.
Polyester accordion pleats are extremely durable and can be washed. Silk pleats should be dry-cleaned carefully to preserve the folds.
We routinely produce pleats from 3 mm (micro accordion) up to 20 mm wide, depending on the design and fabric.
Related techniques

Knife Pleats
Sharp, narrow, one-directional pressed folds — crisp and tailored.

Box Pleats
Wide, structured symmetrical folds with architectural presence.

Sunburst Pleats
Radiating pleats that narrow at the waist and fan out dramatically.

Crystal Pleats
Extremely fine, delicate micro-pleats with a shimmering crystalline effect.
Order accordion pleats from Africa's #1 atelier
Custom patterns, fabrics, and finishes delivered worldwide from our Jemmel workshop.
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