Plis Cartouche
Cartridge Pleats
Dense, rounded pleats historically used for waistlines and cuffs.
Cartridge pleats — also known as gauging — are dense, rounded folds historically used to attach full skirts to fitted waistlines or sleeves to cuffs. They allow a huge amount of fabric to be gathered into a small area without bulk at the join. A staple of historical costume and increasingly popular in contemporary couture.
History & origins
Cartridge pleats originated in medieval and Renaissance dressmaking, solving the problem of attaching full skirts to narrow waistbands. They remain a favorite of historical costumiers and modern wedding-dress designers.
Characteristics
- Dense, uniformly rounded rolls
- Very strong gathering effect
- Hand-stitched or machine-gauged
Best fabrics
- Silk taffeta
- Heavy satin
- Linen
- Cotton
Common applications
- Historical costume
- Bridal gowns
- Fitted waistbands
- Cuffs
How we make it
Parallel gathering rows
Two or three rows of parallel stitching are made across the fabric.
Pulling and setting
Threads are pulled to form rounded tubes; the pleats are hand-stitched into place.
Frequently asked questions about cartridge pleats
Similar but not identical. Gathers are soft and irregular; cartridge pleats are firm, rounded, and regular.
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